#Deltacad texturing how to
#Deltacad texturing driver
#Deltacad texturing plus

This is how my welder will fit on there when completed.Īgain, I reused the handle that came off the old one. I reused the wheels off of another cart my friend purchased for me (he got the wrong one). Misc shot of me welding it together and finishing up So I used two levels to make sure the top and bottom of the cart matched. The platform I used to lay the cart on was not leveled because of the floor having a slight downward grade. I used lots of clamps and was accompanied by a swear-jar. I took great care in making sure that the bottom was square. You’ll see what I mean when you look at the photos. I had it arched up in the front so really it’s 12×15 a 15degree angle. I saved them because they are “L” shaped and holds a true line. I still have a lot more left for other projects.

I knew I would need it one day and so I saved them. It was fun because all the raw material I had was used bed frames. I know, I could buy one but what’s the fun in that right? So I drew out some preliminary plans based on some of the popular carts I saw around the web. I wanted to make a welder cart for my welder. I added the back support and soon will add the cushions for it so I can start on my six-pack. I painted the frame with black Rust-Oleum gun metal textured paint. Lastly, I added the feet hold/grasp thingy so that you can hold on it with your feet and use it to pull yourself up when working on your abs. I cut 2.5″ pieces and welded them on the side to give placement for backboard attachment. Once I got the legs welded, I laid them on the jig to make sure they fit nicely and then proceeded in welding it all together. I made a jig to setup the pieces and for easier assembly because of the differing angles.

#Deltacad texturing plus

The ends were folded together and welded to create a closed tube plus to minimize injury during use. Hence why the steel was so inexpensive.Ĭut them down to size as desired by my plans. I sanded all the rust off with the DA sander. That way it would save me time at the end. I had it cut down to 6ft lengths then welded them together once I got to the shop. I purchased 12ft of 12×1 steel square tubing. Thinking it would cost me twice as much…. They are not pricey and I thought to myself that it would be awesome if I made my own.

#Deltacad texturing driver

1750/4 = 437.5RPMĢ) Driver pulley is connected to the Driven pulley 437.5RPM via 1″ pulley. (RPM)x(circumference of wheelblade in ft)įPM to RPM calculation: FPM/(PI X wheelblade dia in ft)Īluminum: 90RPM-303RPM Castings require higher speeds because of the silicon content.ġ) This gives a 4:1 ratio. (motor rpm X Drive pulley)/(Driven Pulley) (Driven Pulley)/(Drive Pulley)= #:1 gearing ratio To ponder a 14″ bandsaw blade mated to the completed device makes me melt inside=) This is a nice project but in the midst of everything and the chaos, I have temporarily lost interest. The 90VDC isn’t clean so the capacitor is needed to “enhance” the current to a more direct current (DC current) to supply the motor. The variac’s input is 110/120VAC and the output can vary depending on what you buy.Ģ) I take the dialed output and run in through the BR. So I’ll explain whats going on in the diagram:ġ) My motor requires 90VDC. The capacitor is there to “smooth” the VDC current to the motor. To do the opposite, we would require a bridge rectifier (BR). When VDC is converted to VAC and the device that allows this transition, is called an inverter. Lets start with a little introduction into AC-DC conversions here. I have a diagram I quickly threw together to farther help myself in the planning of this coldsaw: Running the motor is a little tricky because it would require you to have a variac (variac is coined and related to GE electric) device, aka variable transformer, to control the output VAC, then take that VAC and convert it into VDC. There I would then mate it with a 1-2hp VDC motor.

I made sure when I picked out the reducer that it had a 56C face mount.

A two step process to assure that everything will line up squarely. Once the mounting plate was mounted on the reducer, it would then be secured onto the boom. 35:1 ratio is perfect for a coldsaw (40:1 would do just fine). The mounting plate I designed was for any Browning Gear reducer to be able to mount to it. Two would be needed for strength plus to shield the coldsaw blade inside for safety. The whole boom would be made of aluminum plate 1/2 thick. I based this shape off of a Ryobi Chopsaw I had lying around. My Designs where to build out the arms: I drew this on deltacadīasically you see that the “boom” of the saw is shaped like the booms you see on regular chop saws.

#Deltacad texturing how to

I know exactly how to make a bandsaw now.